Does Russia really forbid French winegrowers to use the term “champagne”?

French winegrowers boiled in anger last week over reports that Russia had passed new legislation stipulating that the term “champagne” can only be applied to wine produced in Russia, and that producers in the famous Champagne region in France must label their champagne “sparkling wine.”

Some of these outrages are justified, others ill-advised, but this is certain: the new law, signed on Friday by Russian President Vladimir Putin, grants Russian sparkling wine manufacturers the only authorization to label their product as “shampanskoye”, while all foreign producers should use the Russian term for sparkling wine on the back of their bottles. This includes the winemakers of the eponymous French region from which the champagne takes its name.

It’s a decision that goes against the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, a French certification system that seeks to protect the good names of the country’s famous products by subjecting them to rigorous standards. For example, the Roquefort must come from the Combalou caves in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon; the cognac must come from the French region of Cognac; champagne must come from Champagne.

But despite what some media reports have suggested, Russia does not prohibit French winemakers from using “champagne” or exploiting that word for locally made sparkling wine.

“Champagne wines have retained the exclusive right to use the name ‘champagne’ in Latin characters, on the main label,” said Stephen Stern, an Australian intellectual property lawyer who focuses on wine law. and has extensive experience in defending the name of champagne.

“The new Russian law requires genuine champagne producers to renounce all use of the term ‘shampanskoye’ – a translation of the name ‘champagne’ into Russian – and they must use the term ‘sparkling wine’ in Cyrillic characters on the back label. . Only Russian sparkling wines are allowed to use the name ‘shampanskoye’, ”Stern told VICE World News.

French champagne producers like Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and GH Mumm can still put the word “champagne” on their bottles and sell them legally in Russia – as long as they only use the French word, in Latin characters, and declare in Cyrillic on the back of the bottle that the product is “sparkling wine”. Those in Russia who are able to read these labels, or at least recognize them, will know they are looking at the real thing.

Others probably won’t, however. And this is where things get problematic for French champagne producers.

“There will be a large number of Russian consumers who will not be able to read or speak English or French and will not be able to read Latin characters,” Stern said. “Therefore, when looking to buy sparkling wine, they will look for the Russian word ‘shampanskoye’ written in Cyrillic letters.

While French champagne producers previously labeled their Russian exports as “shampanskoye” in order to reach consumers who only read Cyrillic, they are now prohibited from doing so. From now on, “shampanskoye” (шампанское) should only refer to sparkling wines that have been produced in Russia from grapes in Russia.

“This new law is certainly not in the interest of Russian consumers, because it deprives them of [of] important information (previously available) and is very likely to be confusing, ”Stern said. “These new laws are not good for consumers, importers or producers of Russian champagne.”

The additional requirement of having to label their products as “sparkling wine” is a further insult to champagne producers, Stern noted, describing it as an “unnecessary and humiliating requirement” that “rubs the noses of Champagne people in dirt. “.

“Sparkling wine is a huge category that includes sparkling wine made from anything, anywhere,” he said. “The French are obviously very proud of champagne, and they only call it champagne – they never call it sparkling wine. Being forced to market your own product and label it “sparkling wine” is, some would say, intended to humiliate or taunt.

New Russian laws have divided members of the French champagne industry.

Moët Hennessy, the maker of the Veuve Clicquot and Dom Pérignon champagnes, announced on Sunday that it would comply with the new legislation and start adding the appellation of sparkling wine to the back of bottles exported to Russia, Reuters reported. Meanwhile, on Monday, the French champagne industry group denounced the laws and called for an end to all champagne exports to Russia.

“The Champagne Commission regrets that this legislation does not guarantee Russian consumers clear and transparent information on the origins and characteristics of wine,” said co-presidents Maxime Toubart and Jean-Marie Barillere in a statement, according to France 24.

The effects of Russian law have already spilled over into the stock market. Shares of Abrau-Durso, which produces Russian sparkling wines, jumped 9% on Monday.

However, Abrau-Durso chairman Pavel Titov told Radio France Internationale that his company did not have sparkling wines that would be called “champagne” – and that he hoped all problems with the new law would be resolved.

“It is very important to protect Russian wines in our market,” he said on Saturday. “But the legislation must be reasonable and not contradict common sense… I have no doubt that real champagne is made in the Champagne region of France.”

Many agree, including the 120 countries where the name “champagne” enjoys legal protection, under the Lisbon Agreement for the Protection of Appellations of Origin and their International Registration. Russia is not a signatory to this agreement and there is no law prohibiting Russian winegrowers from labeling their bottles with the name “champagne” in Latin characters.

Rather, Sten said there is an “historic oral diplomatic agreement” between Russia and the Interprofessional Champagne Wine Committee, which imposes an informal ban on their use of the Latin name. Putin’s new law does not appear to change the terms of this deal.

Follow Gavin on Twitter.