Column: Two sparkling wines to drink at the change of season

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As the lazy summer days come to an end, it’s almost time to embrace the fall harvest season. And what better way to celebrate this transition than with a bottle of sparkling wine. Today, we are opening two newcomers to British Columbia: a sparkling wine from the Canary Islands and a pink Prosecco from northern Italy imported by the World Wine Synergy agency.

Los Bermejos Malvasia Volcanica 2019 Brut Nature [SKU 012135] ($ 43.99; “92 points”) is from the easternmost Canary Island of Lanzarote. It is only 125 km from the African coast but it looks like a lunar landscape.

An 18th century volcanic explosion blanketed the entire island with lava and ash three to five meters deep, making it difficult to grow grapes. Each vine must be planted in a hole or hoyo that crosses this infertile volcanic crust of petrified lava to the organic matter that can nourish it.

And to complicate matters, the wind is so fierce that each hoyo is surrounded by rock faces for protection. Yields are tiny due to the extreme conditions. But on the positive side, each Malvasia grape is concentrated in flavor.

Los Bermejos owner Ignacio Valdera completes his harvest with fruit purchased from producers who share his vision of sustainable viticulture; with such low yields, the winery would have to own most of the island’s land in order to produce financially viable amounts of wine from proprietary grapes.

Bermejo sparkling wine is produced from Malvasia Volcanica, native to the Canary Islands. According to the traditional Champagne method, it is then aged for twenty months on the lees in the bottle, which gives a toasted complexity to the finished product.

The Malvasia displays a deep straw color with fine bubble pearls. There is much to admire in the generous aroma: baked bread, tree fruit, earthiness and spices!

Layers of explosive flavors delight your palate: ripe apples, quinces, ginger and minerals from volcanic craters. Lively acidity and a slight bitterness contrast with the sweet fruitiness of the mid-palate. Plus, there’s an appealing creaminess with a dry fruity finish.

Leave to cool in the refrigerator a few hours before serving or immerse in an ice bath for half an hour. Enjoy with watermelon, cucumber feta salad, tapas, tuna or paella.

You can buy the 2019 Los Bermejos Malvasia Volcanica Brut Nature at the BCLS store on Alberni and Bute streets in Vancouver or you can order it by case of six bottles at any BCLStore.

From the Spanish Canary Islands, we travel north-eastern Italy, to the land of Italy’s most popular champagne, Prosecco. Zago Millesimato Prosseco DOC Brut Rosé 2019 [SKU 58741] ($ 29.99; “90 points”) is a blend of Glera and Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) grapes from the regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia and Veneto in northeastern Italy. The sparkling wine is produced using the Charmat process and presents a pretty pale pink color with fine and persistent bubbles.

There is an attractive aroma of bright red berries with an elegant and delicate flavor of cherry and strawberry. Expect a luscious creamy texture and crunchy acidity to balance the fruit with a slightly off-dry conclusion.

This pink Prosecco is perfect for toasting in late summer or early fall. It is ideal as an aperitif with slices of salami and other cold cuts, or a Roman chicken with artichokes, olives and pappardelle.

Zago Prosseco Brut Rosé is available at Ironwood BC Liquor store in Richmond and other locations.

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