Wine Guy: Tuscany is more than Chianti, but it’s mostly Sangiovese | Way of life

Although Chianti is the best known Tuscan wine, there are many other fine wines from this famous region. Let’s visit a few.

Most Tuscan wines use Sangiovese as a base (usually at least 70%). Cultivated throughout Italy, it shines in Tuscany. Typically, his wines feature deep, cherry and sometimes darker fruit with a firm, dry structure. The complexity is revealed in the notes of baking spices, earth, forest and anise. It is often blended with other indigenous grape varieties, and increasingly with Bordeaux grape varieties.

Chianti Classico is generally considered to produce the best Chianti wines. Riserva indicates higher quality fruit and prolonged aging in barrel and bottle. Gran Selezione is the highest classification, requiring 90% Sangiovese, estate fruit and even longer ageing.

• 2016 San Felice “Poggio Rosso” Gran Selezione ($70) Juicy, toasty, oaky.

• Tenuta Perano Riserva 2016 ($35) vibrant, intense, spicy.

• 2017 Tenuta di Arceno “Strada al Sasso” Gran Selezione ($55) rich, flavorful, vanilla.

Chianti Rufina is generally considered the second best area. Its higher vineyards generally produce brighter fruit.

• Selvapiana “Vigneto Bucerchiale” 2016 ($36), exuberant, woody, elegant.

• 2016 Selvapiana “Erchi” ($50) Bright, woody, graceful.

Carmignano is unique in that its wines must contain at least 50% Sangiovese and 10% to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc as well as other local grape varieties.

• 2017 Villa di Capezzana ($30) 80% sangiovese/20% cabernet sauvignon, powerful, intense, tannic.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – the name reflects its geographic origin and popularity with royalty over the centuries – typically exhibits refreshing, vibrant fruit with softer tannins.

• 2018 Poliziano ($30) Bright, earthy, polished.

Brunello di Montalcino (100% local clone of Sangiovese grown around the village of Montalcino) is even more popular and more expensive than Chianti. These are some of the most concentrated, muscular and long-lasting expressions of Sangiovese.

• Castelgiocondo 2016 ($71) Spices, tobacco, dense.

• Campogiovanni 2016 ($65) intense but approachable.

Montecucco is a small area west of Montalcino in the Tuscan Maremma region. Most of the grapes (mainly Sangiovese) are certified organic.

• 2016 Poggio Stenti “Pian di Staffa” Riserva ($52) 100% Sangiovese, dense, dusty, lush.

Morellino di Scansano, a fast-growing area at the southern end of Maremma, must be made with at least 85% Sangiovese from vineyards around the village of Scansano.

• 2019 Lohsa ($16) Ripe, grassy, ​​lush.

For all its tradition, Tuscany is also a center of innovation, as with the so-called Super Tuscans, officially Toscana IGT. Defined by the use of non-native grape varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, many are considered among Italy’s finest wines.

• 2019 Tenute Luce “Lucente” ($30) 75% Merlot/25% Sangiovese, juicy, smooth, tobacco.

Toscana IGT has become increasingly associated with Maremma, particularly the Bolgheri area along the west coast where single varietal wines and French/Italian blends are more common.

• 2017 San Felice “Bell’ Aja” Bolgheri Superiore ($60) merlot/cabernet sauvignon, concentrated, oaky, elegant.