The best autumn wines


“All things on earth refer to the house of old October; sailors to the sea, travelers to walls and fences, hunters to fields and hollows and the long voice of dogs, the lover to the love that ‘He quitted.” So said novelist Thomas Wolfe, who might have added, “hardy wine drinkers.” Here are several new additions to the market this fall that make delicious sense.

Brands of Casa Concha Carménère 2019 ($ 24.99) – Peumo is a classic Chilean vineyard, called “the birthplace of Carménère wines” in the Cachapoal Valley, which has been operated since 1981 by Domingo Marchi, agricultural director of the Rapel area. The wine has excellent structure, deep fruit and spends 12 months in French oak barrels. Its acidity enhances the supple tannins. A good wine for lamb chops.

Trapiche Broquel Selected Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($ 15.99) – Year after year, this wine from Maipú, Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley in Argentina improves. The 2017 was exceptional, and it’s almost as good. Aged in 20% new wood, the oak induces a pleasant roundness and a nutty taste with black fruits in this 100% Cab, so it is a muscular example but not too powerful. To drink with T-bone steaks.

Riesling Vignoble Bouchaine Las Brisas 2018 ($ 38) – California Rieslings are gaining stature, and Napa’s Las Brisas Vineyard appears to be a showcase for the varietal. The wine has a nice aroma and the fruit and acid are in good balance, so it is very refreshing, without being too sweet or too tart. A delicious pairing for seafood of all kinds or with mature cheeses.

2019 Ram’s Gate Estate Pinot Blanc ($ 38) – Pinot Blanc rarely exceeds the level of a good white wine without distinguishing it too much, but Ram’s Gate’s comes from three different blocks grown on the estate’s vineyard, each planted on a different clone (Bien Nacido, Étude and Beringer), which is very unusual for this grape. It’s a cool climate, so it’s not scorched by the Californian sun, and the result is a Pinot Blanc with dimensions. To drink with salmon or chicken.

Ornellaia Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia 2019 ($ 82) – Ornellaia is famous for its flagship Bolgheri reds, including Le Serre Nuove di Ornellaia, which is based on Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and the 2019 is formidable. But I was equally, if not more, impressed with this blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino and Verdicchio made from small plots along the Tuscan coast. Winemaker Olga Fusari says: “The extended harvest times proved to be favorable to the aromatic expression of the wine, which is found in the intense notes of citrus and exotic fruits accompanied by the scent of freshly mown grass and asparagus. Fortunately, I didn’t notice asparagus in the wine, but here is a Sauvignon Blanc with the same distinction as the best Trebbiano Abruzzo. It has layers of fruit and complexity, best served with pasta like spaghetti alla vongole.

Inama “Foscarino” Soave Classico 2019 ($ 28) – As with Ornellaia Sauvignon Blanc, I was amazed at the complexity of this Soave, a varietal found more in loose wines and overly familiar labels than among more Italian wines. bland. This comes from vines between 40 and 60 years old from vineyards on the volcanic Mount Foscarino in the Soave Classico region. This is 100% Garganega, vinified in used barrels, stainless steel and Austrian oak, which subtly adds to the fabric and texture of the wine on the palate. With Venetian dishes like polenta or squid ink pasta, it’s perfect.

Rombauer Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($ 52.99) – About 25% of this wine was fermented in barrels to provide a richer, more textured palette (for the palate!), Then basket-pressed before being racked into French oak barrels. Its blend is 83% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot, with an alcohol level of 14.8%, which is high but the balance prevents it from being a bruiser. Drink with read meats or stews.

Blackbird Vineyards Illustration Owner Red Wine 2017 ($ 139) – A Pomerol de Bordeaux style, blended from 49% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Cabernet Franc. The alcohol level is also closer to Bordeaux at 14.1%, making it an easy-drinking wine that pairs well with everything from chicken and veal to beef and lamb. But emptor caution: it’s very expensive.

Family Secret Burgundy Côte d’Or Pinot Noir 2014 ($ 23) – From the label you would think this is just a nice family wine from Burgundy, but to be fair it reveals just how much Côte d’Or wines can be. good, even without much fanfare or big names behind them. At this price point, it can easily be drunk anytime with almost anything except delicate fish, and with a juicy burger, ribs, or mild cheeses, it’s a consistent winner.

Villa Maria Earth Garden Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($ 20) – Years ago New Zealand wineries like Cloudy Bay made huge successes in the world market with sweet and punchy Sauvignon Blancs that didn’t taste so much like Sauvignon Blanc but did the price was to sell. Now, evolution has shown that a small cellar like Villa Maria which is owned by a family can make a lovely and charming Sauvignon Blanc with just the right green notes is a very light sweetness an excellent acid which makes it a good pairing for wine. muscles, lobster and all shellfish.

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