grape varieties – Vins Jean De Monteil http://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/ Tue, 12 Apr 2022 19:05:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.3 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/favicon-150x150.png grape varieties – Vins Jean De Monteil http://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/ 32 32 Week of 06/03/22: Vinography https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/week-of-06-03-22-vinography/ Sat, 12 Mar 2022 20:42:23 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/week-of-06-03-22-vinography/ Hello and welcome to my weekly dig into the pile of wine samples begging to be tasted. I’m happy to bring you the latest episode of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the best bottles that have come through my door recently. Last week, a few wines from Neely Wine, a small family business […]]]>

Hello and welcome to my weekly dig into the pile of wine samples begging to be tasted. I’m happy to bring you the latest episode of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the best bottles that have come through my door recently.

Last week, a few wines from Neely Wine, a small family business that follows in the great tradition of Stanford faculty wineries in California’s Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, were included. The winery owns and operates the Spring Ridge vineyard, which begins in the Portola Valley and runs up the eastern flanks of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir both have lovely lean liveliness and show great restraint in winemaking, emphasizing the fruit rather than the barrel.

The rest of this week’s wines are sort of a comparison panel, put together by the folks at Wines of Chile, who decided to send me six Cabernet Sauvignons, three from the Colchagua Valley and three from the Maipo Valley.

Therefore, we have to make a small geographical explanation.

The Maipo Valley is the closest major wine region to the Chilean capital, Santiago, right in the middle of the country, this proximity having made it one of the first wine regions to be planted in the country. Maipo tends to be hot and dry, and the vineyards are mostly located in the foothills of the Andes, which provide a refreshing little uplift and are responsible for the alluvial gravel that led early French winemakers to suggest to recently independent Chileans that they should plant Bordeaux grape varieties.

The southern border of the Maipo Valley is formed by another (much larger) east-west valley known as the Rapel Valley. Rapel is divided into two distinct wine regions, and the southern part is known as the Colchagua Valley. The slightly lower altitudes of this valley, the higher annual rainfall (than Maipo) and its fertile soils have made this region one of the best agricultural lands in Chile. But Colchagua has soils very similar to Maipo, again thanks to the ubiquitous Andes and the seemingly endless number of rivers that flow from the Cordillera. Given its previous focus on traditional agriculture, Colchagua is a relatively new wine region, with fewer big names than Maipo.

Interestingly, the Chileans sent in wines from these two regions for comparison and contrast, as they are actually quite similar in the broadest terms, kind of like asking someone to compare and contrast contrast Oakville and St. Helena to Napa. It’s hard to generalize (or extrapolate) a big difference from just a few wines. It might be much easier to compare the individual sites of each vineyard than to compare the two valleys.

But, strictly speaking of the six wines below, I found Colchagua wines to have slightly more grassy and salty tones, while Maipo wines tasted slightly riper and fruitier. Of the six, I enjoyed the Echeverria and Torres wines just slightly more than their compatriots, although all were quite tasty, with some being excellent values.

I must note with some prejudice that the Echeverria wine comes in an offensively heavy bottle, one of the most egregious I’ve experienced in some time. The glass itself weighs over a kilogram, a ridiculously ostentatious statement that clearly suggests the winery cares more about its brand image than the environment.

It’s all for this week !

Tasting Notes

2019 Neely “Bee Block” Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
Light greenish gold in color, this wine smells of lemon peel and white flowers. On the palate, lemon curd and lemon pith are very pleasant thanks to good acidity and light notes of tropical fruits such as papaya and mango that linger on the finish. 13.3% alcohol. 595 boxes made. Note: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $46. click to buy.

2019 Neely “Hidden Block” Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
Light garnet in color, this wine smells of cranberry and raspberry. On the palate, bright gooseberry and raspberry flavors have a hint of pomegranate and a green, dried herb flavor that is appealing. There’s even a slight saline quality to the finish. 12.5% ​​alcohol. 254 boxes made. Note: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2018 Terranoble “Gran Reserva” Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of slightly smoky earth and red fruits. On the palate, juicy flavors of cherry and herbs mingle with a hint of licorice and dried flowers. There is a slight saline quality to the wine. Also light tannins. 14% alcohol. Note: approx. 8.5. Cost: $18. click to buy.

2016 Echeverria “Limited Edition” Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and tobacco leaf. On the palate, the wine has a stony purity, with notes of cherry and tobacco mingling with cola and lovely earth. Excellent acidity and very fine tannins. 14% alcohol. Comes in a stupidly heavy bottle weighing 1.86kg when full. One of the worst I’ve seen. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $26. click to buy.

2018 Maquis Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cut grass and bright cherry. On the palate, cherry, green herbs and a hint of green pepper mingle under a vaporous haze of tannins. Good acidity. Certified sustainable. 14% alcohol. Note: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $17. click to buy.

2017 Viña Aquitania “Lazuli” Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of cherry and a hint of black olive. On the palate, this fruity, savory quality continues with cherry, black olive, herbs and a hint of tobacco enveloped in a vaporous haze of tannins. Good acidity. 14.5% alcohol. Note: approx. 8.5. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2018 Los Vascos “Cromas – Gran Reserva” Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of lightly smoky green herbs and red fruits. On the palate, cherry and green herbs mingle with dried sage and a touch of licorice root. Good acidity, very light tannins and a touch of warmth on the finish. 14.5% alcohol. Note: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $18. click to buy.

2018 Miguel Torres “Reserva Especial Cordillera de los Andes – Parcela Coluvión” Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of struck match, black cherry and cola with just a hint of fresh green herbs. On the palate, flavors of cherry cola mingle with a touch of cinnamon and cocoa powder. Quite pretty. 14% alcohol. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $23. click to buy.

]]>
Why Fredericksburg, Texas is the “Wild West of Winemaking” https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/why-fredericksburg-texas-is-the-wild-west-of-winemaking/ Fri, 11 Mar 2022 13:50:31 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/why-fredericksburg-texas-is-the-wild-west-of-winemaking/ Fredericksburg, Texas would be worth a visit just to take in the natural beauty of the Texas Hill Country in the spring and soak up its German heritage. But the main draw of the city, about 70 miles from Austin or San Antonio, is its reputation as the epicenter of the Texas wine scene. With […]]]>

Fredericksburg, Texas would be worth a visit just to take in the natural beauty of the Texas Hill Country in the spring and soak up its German heritage. But the main draw of the city, about 70 miles from Austin or San Antonio, is its reputation as the epicenter of the Texas wine scene.

With over 100 wineries, it would be impossible to visit them all in one trip, but here are a few to set you off on a memorable odyssey through a booming wine region.

Kalasi Cellars

At this 16-acre winery, guests are greeted by Dalai the Lama. That’s the first clue that this isn’t your ordinary vineyard. At nearly 6 feet tall and 300 pounds, he might look a bit intimidating, but as long as you don’t mess around with the adorable Southdown Babydoll Sheep, you should get along just fine.

Another conversation starter is the yellow and red auto-rickshaw parked outside the tasting room, a nod to Nikhila Narra Davis’ Indian heritage. She owns the winery with her husband Greg Davis, who is often spotted driving around the property in the three-wheeled vehicle emblazoned with the Kalasi elephant logo.

Inside the tasting room, wine lovers sip iconic dry reds while munching on Indian snacks. Some play it safe by selecting Malbec and Merlot, while adventurous drinkers choose the Reincarnation collection which features less familiar varietals and uncommon winemaking techniques.

The 2017 Re d’Italia reserve is a must. A triumvirate of Italian grape varieties, including the obscure Teroldego, blend together like the three tenors of an Italian opera. Lively notes of blackberry and plum mingle with hints of clove and anise.

The Davises are happy to answer any questions you have about wines, but don’t ask about terroir, a term that refers to how a region’s climate gives grapes their character. Winemakers are far too polite to roll their eyes, but they don’t care much about what they say is a romanticized concept.

“It’s a fancy word often used in marketing, but ultimately it’s following good practices in the vineyard that makes good wine,” Nikhila said.

That’s why Kalasi wines are 100% estate grown, meaning all grapes are grown on their own vineyard in the high plains of Texas. This gives winemakers more control over practices, such as pruning and harvesting, that affect the quality of the final product. (1-830-992-3037, kalasicellars.com.)

Auguste Wine

Augusta Vin’s Grand Tour begins with an outdoor ride through sprawling, verdant vineyards, where 10 sun-kissed, mostly French varietals of grapes hang gracefully from leafy vines under clear blue skies.

Guests eventually arrive at the production facility, where tour guide and sommelier Molly Galbraith explains the winemaking process. She breaks down the science behind fermentation and visitors learn how aging in oak barrels imparts complex, layered flavors.

Galbraith says the region is experiencing an exciting wine renaissance. “It’s the Wild West of wine. We’ve got a lot of real maverick winemakers here who are trying really cool, funky, forward-thinking things, and they’re recognized internationally.”

Speaking of recognition, Augusta Vin’s 2017 Petite Sirah and 2017 Tannat both won gold medals at the prestigious San Francisco International Wine Competition.

Tannat is Texas in a glass. The punchy, tannin-rich grape historically grown in southwestern France is unknown to many Americans, but in Texas it can be found in nearly every tasting room as it thrives in the warm climate. When you dig into a big plate of Texas barbecue, tannat is your friend.

The best part of the visit is the tasting on the mezzanine overlooking the production area. Start with a glass of sparkling rosé rosé with white peach undertones, and move on to gorgeous dry reds. You can keep this lovely engraved tasting glass as a souvenir. (1-830-307-1007, augustavin.com.)

Wild Seed Farms

From the patio of Wildseed’s tasting room, a couple sampled the popular Albarino, a crisp white with notes of honeydew and lemongrass, while admiring a vast carpet of fragrant bluebonnets stretching almost to the horizon .

The 200-acre wildflower farm, considered the largest in the country, now grows grapes alongside the flowers. The wine portfolio is modest but growing. This year, the farm will plant 12 acres of Malbec, Grenache and two Cabernet clones.

In the meantime, red wine lovers can savor the 2019 High Plains Tempranillo, the best-selling red. Due to its leathery notes, some call it a “bottled cowboy”, but the full-bodied wine is balanced by dark fruit.

Here you can drink in the fleeting glory of spring in the Hill Country. A mile-long trail takes hikers through fields of brilliant wildflowers. Butterfly gardens and ponds teeming with koi carp the color of a Texas sunset entice visitors to linger in this enchanting garden, where the wonders of nature and the lure of wine intersect. (1-830-990-6684, wildseedfarms.com.)

Tracey Teo is an Indiana-based travel writer.

Fredericksburg, TX

Getting There : Nonstop flights from Minneapolis to San Antonio and Austin. Fredericksburg is a 1-2 hour drive from either airport.

Where to stay: Blacksmith Quarters on Barons Creek offers luxurious and unique cottages in downtown Fredericksburg (1-830-998-1981, vacasa.com/usa/Blacksmith-Quarters).

Where to eat: Eaker Barbecue serves traditional Texas barbecue with a Korean twist (1-830-992-3650, eakerbarbecue.com).

Tourist information : More information, including wine tours, is available at Visit Fredericksburg (1-830-997-6523, visitfredericksburgtx.com).

]]>
6 Places in Old Town Scottsdale to Sample Local Wine https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/6-places-in-old-town-scottsdale-to-sample-local-wine/ Wed, 09 Mar 2022 21:22:30 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/6-places-in-old-town-scottsdale-to-sample-local-wine/ When we think of high-quality wine produced in the United States, we think first of California. However, Arizona vineyards are gaining in prestige and more and more wineries continue to enter the market, producing unique, high quality wine. The warm climate and high altitude provide a good environment for growing grapes. With low temperatures in […]]]>

When we think of high-quality wine produced in the United States, we think first of California. However, Arizona vineyards are gaining in prestige and more and more wineries continue to enter the market, producing unique, high quality wine. The warm climate and high altitude provide a good environment for growing grapes. With low temperatures in the 40s and 50s and high temperatures in the 70s and 80s (Fahrenheit), the climate is similar to wine regions like Spain, Italy and southern France. As California becomes increasingly impacted by climate change, Arizona will gain prominence in the domestic wine market.

Tasting rooms are springing up in Old Town Scottsdale, where you can start exploring these wonderful Arizona wines. You can taste a flight or choose a drink while discovering the grape varieties and wineries. Bring home a bottle or two or join a wine club to keep the good flavors coming.

Judy Karnia

1. Merkin Vineyards

Maynard James Keenan of the rock band Tool moved to Jerome, Arizona in 1995 and decided to settle there. He discovered that the area was perfect for growing grapes and making wine. He now owns Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards with his wife, Jennifer. The vineyards cover 110 acres in Wilcox, in the southeast corner of Arizona, and near Jerome, north of Phoenix. They ship wine across the United States and you can taste and buy it in Jerome and Old Town Scottsdale.

The Old Town Restaurant is located just off the Scottsdale waterfront on Stetson Drive. Merkin Vineyards strives to provide a complete Arizona experience with its wine paired with local foods. They rely on Mother Nature to provide the perfect combination of fresh ingredients. They grow most of the menu ingredients in their gardens and orchards in the Verde Valley. What they cannot grow themselves, they buy from local farmers.

Brownie dessert at Merkin Vineyard.
Judy Karnia

The menu ranges from small plates and charcuterie boards to pastas and pizzas. My favorites are the lasagna cupcake and the mango chutney burrata. Nothing pairs better with a good red wine than a warm brownie with peanut butter ganache and Merkin ice cream.

The Caduceus and Merkin brands offered included six varieties of white, three rosé and ten red wines. You can choose a flight and enjoy a nice sample or order a glass or bottle of your favorite. My standard choice is the Merkin Tarzan Red, a delicious blend of 65% Tempranillo and 35% Garnacha. Merkin’s friendly staff are always ready to help you decide.

The dark wood interior gives the impression of being in an elegant wine cellar. The U-shaped bar offers plenty of seating to chat with the bartender. Two large rectangular tables welcome a group of wine lovers. When the weather is warm, the large windows along Stetson Drive make little four-tops the perfect spot.

Wine theft at Arizona Stronghold.
Judy Karnia

2. Arizona Bastion

Arizona Stronghold is another vineyard that takes advantage of the terrain in Wilcox, Arizona. They believe that the “wild and fierce” land of the high country here creates an ideal environment for the production of a multitude of delicious wines. They also include grapes from all over the region in making their high quality wine. Grapes need to be tough to survive in the desert, and Arizona Stronghold thinks that adds to their unique flavor.

The tasting room is a small storefront on Marshall Way. The patio, with its handful of tables and vertical heat lamps, is a great place to spend a warm evening watching people go by. You can also perch on benches around tables inside while admiring a vineyard mural on dark red walls.

Choose a white or red wine flight consisting of six 1.5-ounce pours for $15 and compare the different varietals. I enjoyed the Provisioner red wine enough to bring home a bottle. They call their supplier “wine for the people” and believe they capture the soul of Arizona, reminiscent of the frontier-era small town general store. You can take a cheese or charcuterie board to allow you to continue enjoying the wine.

Pro tip: Watch this video for an overview of what Provisioner wine offers.

Aridus wine tasting room.
Judy Karnia

3. Arid

The name Laughed at comes from the Latin word for “dry”. Located in the dry, high-altitude part of southeastern Arizona, this family business has converted a 28,000 square foot apple warehouse into one of the largest wineries in the state. They combine grapes grown on their 40-acre vineyard with grapes from other vineyards in Arizona, New Mexico and California. They have strived to use organic and sustainable practices wherever possible, including drip irrigation.

The Aridus Tasting Room sits among the Main Street art galleries. Chandeliers above the bar, jazz music in the background, lighted tables and flowers give the room a sophisticated and elegant vibe. You can perch at one of the four intimate high tables spread between the walls lined with wine bottles. A space behind the bar with a long table is suitable for large gatherings.

Our server had spent many years working in the California wine country and was very knowledgeable about the art of wine making in both states. My husband and I enjoyed the red wine sampler which was four 2oz pours for $20. Each wine had a rich flavor and it was hard to pick a favourite. When I made the reservation I was able to request a charcuterie board and it was ready when we arrived.

By joining the wine club, you can receive eight bottles of their latest spring and fall vintages. You can choose a mixture of red and white wines or only red wines. The wine club also includes discounts and free wine tastings.

Carlson Creek Wine Tasting Room.
Judy Karnia

4. Carlson Creek

The Carlson family planted their first 7 acres of grapes in 2009. Their vineyards gradually grew to 280 acres near Wilcox, Arizona. The elevation of 4,200 feet offers warm days and cool nights similar to southern France and Argentina. As they grew, the family added more varietals and then a winery and tasting room. They often sell their grapes to 10 other wineries and craft 11 varietals themselves.

You can now taste their local wine in a tasting room along Marshall Way that feels like you’re in the middle of the vineyards. The long bar rests on wine barrels on a wooden plank floor. A pewter ceiling reflects light onto sofas and high tables, perfect for chatting wine with friends.

You can choose the five-sample tasting for $12 or choose a full glass of your favorite. For an additional fee, you can even take home your glass as a souvenir. A wonderful $15 cheese platter with artisan cheese, meat, olives and nuts helps keep your palate fresh.

Carlson Creek also hosts wine tasting classes and wine pairing events. You can join the Wine Society and receive 12 bottles of a blend of red, white and rosé wines or your choice of varietals. You can also enjoy free tastings and a discount on other purchases.

Pro tip: The space is a converted art gallery and you can always find beautiful artwork for sale on the walls.

5. LDV Vineyard

When LDV owners Curt Dunham and Peggy Fiandaca decided to start a winery, they found the perfect conditions in the southeast corner of Arizona near the Chiricahua Mountains. Their desired conditions included a mountainous environment, crystal clear water, good drainage, volcanic soil, and land that had never experienced commercial agriculture. This transformed them from ardent wine collectors into enthusiastic winemakers.

The LDV Tasting Room is just a few feet from the South Bridge on Scottsdale’s waterfront. The large patio is surrounded by a fence made of whole barrels and barrel staves – perfect for a chilly day or warm evening. Three different wine flights are offered for $15 each and they include three varietals, which change periodically. A full glass or bottle is also available for sale.

LDV offers the Sky Islander Wine Club which offers three tiers of benefits along with special events listed on their website. Check out their short blog posts, including a short video, with monthly wine tips, including what wine to pair with Girl Scout cookies and how to prepare for a party.

Wine tasting at the Salvatore Tasting Room.
Judy Karnia

6. Salvatore Vineyards

Named after the grandfather of their winemaker Jason Domanico, Salvatore Vineyards focuses on meticulously crafted wines in small batches. The Domanico family originated from Sicily and Calabria, Italy. The logo on the wine bottles combines elements of the crests of these two areas. Passion Cellars, the winery, was created to capitalize on the expansion of winemaking in Arizona. The vineyard focuses on fruity white wines and complex red wines. They are setting aside their best grapes to age longer for a reserve run under the Salvatore label.

You can find the Tasting Room across from the Bronze Horse Fountain near the Scottsdale waterfront. A long bar allows you to contemplate the rows of wine bottles while chatting with your server. There are also a handful of small tables under the beautiful, colorful art that adorns the walls. Various flavors of oil and vinegar are also on sale.

A visit to Scottsdale is the perfect time to sample Arizona’s growing wine scene. The Old Town Tasting Rooms provide a wonderful experience where you can begin your learning about the wonderful varietals of Arizona. You’ll probably be tempted to join one of the wine clubs to bring these flavors to friends back home.

]]>
Mexican natural wine finds a new home in Guanajuato https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/mexican-natural-wine-finds-a-new-home-in-guanajuato/ Wed, 23 Feb 2022 12:02:54 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/mexican-natural-wine-finds-a-new-home-in-guanajuato/ A new wave of Mexican wine is on the rise in Guanajuato, a state in the central highlands. While the region is internationally known for the tourist hub of San Miguel de Allende, just outside the city is the country’s fourth and fastest growing wine-producing state, not to mention the one of the youngest, with […]]]>

A new wave of Mexican wine is on the rise in Guanajuato, a state in the central highlands. While the region is internationally known for the tourist hub of San Miguel de Allende, just outside the city is the country’s fourth and fastest growing wine-producing state, not to mention the one of the youngest, with 30 wineries and modern viticultural practices dating back to the early 2000s.

Consulting winemaker Natalia López Mota and her partner from the Balkans, Branko Pjanic, are part of the crew in Guanajuato. The couple started producing wine in Mexico in 2012 and today produce their own unfiltered blends under the Cava Garambullo label. They primarily ferment organic grapes with natural yeast and minimal intervention.

“Cava Garambullo is exciting; they are trendsetters,” says Sandra Fernandez, sommelier in Mexico City. “They raise awareness [for natural wine]and Guanajuato is definitely at the forefront of this movement.

Vineyards in Cuna de Tierra / Photo courtesy of Cuna de Tierra

Although Guanajuato has a few large luxury lifestyle estates like Tres Raíces and Viñedos San Lucas, it is also home to several smaller-scale natural and organic wineries. These winemakers avoid industrial yeasts, synthetic chemicals, pesticides and herbicides for eco-sensitive farming methods.

Red wines such as Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc account for around 70% of Guanajuato’s production. White grape varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chenin Blanc and Viognier.

Octagono is part of the natural wine scene in Mexico
Octagono line / Photo courtesy Octagono

Lighter wines with lower alcohol levels are also emerging, thanks to the state’s climate. The average elevation is 6,500 feet above sea level, with cold winters, hot summers, and a wide daytime temperature range.

“This style of wine is highly sought after by top Mexican chefs who like to use them for wine pairings,” says Fernandez. “Menus are becoming lighter and more vegan, top chefs use only organic produce and these wines fit their philosophy very well.”

Yet, she says, natural winesor natural wines, are currently a niche product in Mexico, enjoyed by young drinkers in wine bars in Mexico City’s trendy neighborhoods.

Frenchman Gaëtan Rousset, co-founder of Loup Bar in Mexico City, believes Cava Garambullo has “a real terroir-driven approach” and cites Marcelo Castro Vera’s Octagono label as a more extreme example of Guanajuato’s wine revolution. The first wines from Mexico to be fermented and stored in buried clay containers, the Octagono range is made from organically grown fruit, using ambient yeast and no added sulphur. These rustic bottlings include an orange cuvée and a sparkling-natural.

Aging Clay in Mexico Natural Wine Movement in Guanjuato
Clay vessels used to age wines at Octagono / Photo by Mukasha Dadajonova

One of the early leaders of Guanajuato’s wine resurgence is Viñedo Cuna de Tierra, a 98-acre high-altitude estate in Dolores Hidalgo. She released her first wine in 2005 from French grape varieties planted in the early 1990s.

“Our vines are planted at around 2,000 meters [6,561 feet] above sea level, which means cooler temperatures and very little disease pressure,” says winemaker Juan Manchon. “As a result, the grapes have lively acidity and freshness, and we use very little product in the vineyard.”

Bodega Dos Búhos, which released its first wines in 2008, vinifies organic grapes and ferments with wild yeast to make certified organic wines. A former peach orchard, the family vineyard is located on the Guanajuato Rutas del Vino, a wine tourism route that crosses 15 estates.

Bodega Dos Buhos natural wine in Guanajuato, Mexico
Bodega Dos Buhos / Photo by Louise Hurren

In Viñedo los Arcángeles, Ulises Ruiz began producing near-organic, unfiltered wines in 2017. Last year, his 2020 Canto de Sirenas Sauvignon Blanc won a Grand Gold medal and the 2021 White Wine Revelation title at the annual México competition. Selection.

“I don’t use pesticides or herbicides, but I work with both natural and selected yeasts, depending on what I want to do,” says Ruiz, who is currently experimenting with orange wines. “We are a small winery that dreams big. I am only a guide for the grapes: I want them to express the essence of what this region can give to the world.

]]>
Bordeaux prepares for hybrid grapes https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/bordeaux-prepares-for-hybrid-grapes/ Sat, 12 Feb 2022 22:09:08 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/bordeaux-prepares-for-hybrid-grapes/ France could be forced to cancel its ban on vinification from hybrid varieties and Bordeaux is already studying their use. © Wine Australia | After authorizing non-regional varieties, Bordeaux could then plant hybrid vines. There’s just no stopping the drama in Bordeaux, is there? Not content with increasing the hackles by allowing warmer climate varietals […]]]>

France could be forced to cancel its ban on vinification from hybrid varieties and Bordeaux is already studying their use.

© Wine Australia
| After authorizing non-regional varieties, Bordeaux could then plant hybrid vines.

There’s just no stopping the drama in Bordeaux, is there?

Not content with increasing the hackles by allowing warmer climate varietals in the appellation, there is now talk of allowing hybrids in the blend. How awful for purists, but it’s a very real possibility.

Elsewhere, there’s sparkling wine news in Piedmont, trouble for small Chianti producers and a long-running case in a French wine court dragging on even longer. Continue reading…

Burgundy grape eyes hybrid

Following the Bordeaux region’s high-profile acceptance of six out-of-region varietals (the warm-climate hardy reds: Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan and Touriga Nacional; and the whites: Alvarinho and Liliorila) recently, reports from the region indicate that locals are now ready to adopt disease-resistant hybrid varieties as well.

This eventual decision – which should be voted on early next month – falls as the European Union prepares to reset its common agricultural policy (the CAP). According to French wine news site Vitisphere, the new CAP – which is due to come into force next year – will allow hybrid grape varieties for wine production in member states.

Although France has a complex relationship with hybrids (it banned the production of wine from hybrid varieties in the 1950s for false health concerns despite many successful hybrids originating in the country), their resistance to disease is cited as a major factor in their revival.

“It must be said that after the trying 2021 vintage (with strong mildew pressure), the prospect of only treating [against cryptogamic attacks] two to three times a year can only be appealing,” said industry commentator Alexandre Abellan.

There is no news yet on which potential varieties the region will adopt, but it is likely that they will fall under legislation allowing experimental hybrid varieties to be planted on more than 5% of vineyard land. These “experimental” plantations cannot represent more than 10% of any resulting wine.

A meeting of Bordeaux’s so-called Management and Defense Organization (ODG) – which could change current viticulture and winemaking legislation in favor of hybrid varieties – is scheduled for March 4.

Ceretto launches a new sparkling wine project

Roberta Ceretto, one of four Ceretto siblings behind the well-regarded eponymous Barolo estate, has launched a new sparkling wine project in Piedmont’s Alta Langa with her husband, interior designer Giuseppe Blengini . Called Monsignore (from the Cascina Monsignore estate in Vicoforte, which also produces Dolcetto-based Dogliani), the first releases cover the 2017 and 2018 vintages.

According to Italian wine news site WineNews.it, current production is around 8,000 bottles with the goal of increasing to 50,000 bottles per vintage. Alta Langa Metodo Classico wines are produced from a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Ceretto said she and her husband had been considering an heirloom project “for years” and the two opted for wine. The project is private and does not involve the Ceretto brand itself.

“In 2014 we started trying different clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir,” she said, “and in 2017 we had our first harvest. My family includes Nebbiolo for Barolo and Barbaresco, but to do quality in Alta Langa we asked the locals for advice. winemaker Giuseppe Caviola.”

More land is being purchased for the project, which is expected to grow from its 10 hectares (25 acres) of vineyard land – more than a quarter of which is devoted to Alta Langha production.

Languedoc court decision remains on the fence

The Narbonne High Court ruled that the Languedoc wine merchants‘ union (the CIVL) was justified in having its representatives of direct marketing removed from the regional council of wine merchants. It’s a complex affair, perhaps best summed up in previous roundups in September (point four) and December (point two) last year.

According to wine news site vitisphere.com, the local court effectively sat on the fence. He said the CIVL was justified in its approach while acknowledging that direct marketing organizations (often – but not entirely – large companies in the region with a significant national and/or international advertising budget) have an important and unique role. within the CIVL.

Unusually, the decision appears to have appeased both parties, although few comments have been issued by the CIVL.

“It’s a big step forward,” Alexandre They, head of the regional direct marketing group, told vitisphere.com. “The court recognizes our legitimacy. This reinforces our thinking: we have our place within the professional body.”

French wine exports to the United States rebound

Exports of French wines to the United States rebounded 50% in 2021, surpassing 2019 figures, according to the country’s foreign trade ministry. French wine journal La Revue du Vin de France said the rebound followed lower tariffs imposed by the Trump administration and a general increase in sales following the earlier impacts of the Covid-19 pandemic.

According to the ministry, exports jumped 19% in value and 33% in volume in 2021.

“The [wine] sector is taking a breather after two years of pandemic and the suspension in March 2021 of the 25% surcharge on certain European wines imposed in October 2019 by the Trump administration,” the RVF said. The tariffs, she said, were part of a long-running dispute between the United States and Europe over state aid to the aviation sector.

Chianti boss sounds the alarm

Unlike France, however, the head of the Chianti Wine Consortium, Marco Alessandro Bani, issued a different note, despite reports that exports of regional Chianti wines also increased by 17% in 2021 (compared to 2019). Bani told regional newspaper Siena Free that despite the general good news, small wineries were still “in big trouble”.

“In the wine sector there are very different situations,” he said. “Some companies are in difficulty because they are not credited by banks. In terms of growth, we must highlight a greater need for financing necessary to pay for the increase in inventories. This growth rests entirely on the shoulders of companies and is not supported by the banking system.

“The world of wine is very big,” he added, “and it doesn’t just contain big companies. There are also small ones that need help.”

Wine truck overturns in western France

“The smell of wine still hangs over the trailer of the damaged truck,” began the report by regional media Ouest France after a truck driver lost control of his vehicle on Tuesday evening. The truck hit a low wall and overturned on a departmental road in Vendée, western France, injuring the driver and losing its cargo of around 600 liters of bottled wine.

Emergency services reportedly remained in the area for around six hours to contain the wine which had spilled into a roadside ditch. A specialist clean-up crew was called in to remove the wine from the waterway.

No news on exactly how the truck driver came through a roadside wall and overturned the truck.

To join the conversation, comment on our social media.

]]>
Application filed to liquidate Auckland’s Coopers Creek vineyard near Kumeū https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/application-filed-to-liquidate-aucklands-coopers-creek-vineyard-near-kumeu/ Sat, 12 Feb 2022 06:17:44 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/application-filed-to-liquidate-aucklands-coopers-creek-vineyard-near-kumeu/ A creditor has moved against Auckland Coopers Creek vineyard. Photo/Michael Craig A request has been filed to liquidate a long-established Auckland vineyard at Huapai near Kumeū. Coopers Creek Vineyard on State Highway 16, a famous wine label and event venue, says it exports its products to in the United States, Asia and Canada. But a […]]]>

A creditor has moved against Auckland Coopers Creek vineyard. Photo/Michael Craig

A request has been filed to liquidate a long-established Auckland vineyard at Huapai near Kumeū.

Coopers Creek Vineyard on State Highway 16, a famous wine label and event venue, says it exports its products to

]]>
Column: The wines recommended today don’t have to be Greek for you https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/column-the-wines-recommended-today-dont-have-to-be-greek-for-you/ Sat, 05 Feb 2022 00:30:00 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/column-the-wines-recommended-today-dont-have-to-be-greek-for-you/ When asked what they think of Greek white wines, most wine drinkers will think of Retsina and wince! Retsina has the distinctive smell and taste of pine resin or Pinesol. And that is an acquired experience! For something completely different, do yourself a favor and pick up a bottle of 2020 Boutari Moshofilero ($18.99; 91 […]]]>

When asked what they think of Greek white wines, most wine drinkers will think of Retsina and wince! Retsina has the distinctive smell and taste of pine resin or Pinesol. And that is an acquired experience!

For something completely different, do yourself a favor and pick up a bottle of 2020 Boutari Moshofilero ($18.99; 91 points). Boutari was established in 1879 and it is one of the best wineries in Greece.

This is a lovely aromatic Greek white wine made from the native Moshofilero grape of the Peloponnese. It has a pale straw color with a hot pink tint. The Moshofilero releases an enchanting aroma of spring flowers washed down with a few squeezes of citrus. This refreshing dry white wine is fresh and crisp with notes of ripe apple, grapefruit and lemon and ends in a long fruity finish.

This is a perfect wine for seafood: calamari, Manhattan clam chowder, grilled octopus, ceviche, fish tacos… the possibilities are endless! And it certainly doesn’t taste like Retsina. It’s instantly delicious!

Boutari also offers a red wine made from native Xinomavro grapes, Boutari 2018 Naoussa ($19.99; 89 points). It was first produced at the turn of the 20th century and now bears the original label. If you want a red that isn’t created in a ripe, fruity style, Boutari Naoussa is your ‘cup of tea’!

The Naoussa has a medium-light terra cotta hue. Its aroma has multiple components: tea, beet and tobacco with cherry and tomato, and cranberry and earthy. It reminded me of drinking a Pinot Noir.

On the palate there is a light body with lots of terroir with hints of herbs and spices. The tannins are rather strong for a wine with this light substance. It is definitely a table wine! When I tasted the Naoussa with a rack of lamb, the wine revealed its best character. It brightened up with more fruit than it was obvious to taste solo!

Besides lamb, enjoy it with moussaka, beef souvlaki or roast chicken with rosemary and oregano.

My final recommendation is the Monte del Fra 2019 Bardolino ($16.99; 90 points). Last week I highly recommended Monte del Fra Custoza Superiore, a white with four indigenous grape varieties. Today’s Bardolino is also a blend of native Italian varietals: 65% Corvina, 30% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese, from 55-year-old vines. Bardolino is Valpolicella’s lesser-known neighbor in the Veneto region of northeast Italy.

There is a medium garnet color in the glass, and on the nose expect dark and red fruits with spice. Savor the juicy, crisp flavors of red and black cherries, kirsch, with medium-light tannins, a kiss of cinnamon and cloves, and a subtly bitter finish.

Monte del Fra Bardolino goes well with pork tenderloin, tuna poke or spaghetti alla puttanesca.

All of today’s Italian and Greek wines are available at BC Liquor Stores.

]]>
Red wine or white wine: which is healthier? – Daily News Hungary https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/red-wine-or-white-wine-which-is-healthier-daily-news-hungary/ Tue, 01 Feb 2022 12:30:00 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/red-wine-or-white-wine-which-is-healthier-daily-news-hungary/ Whether you prefer a glass of translucent Irsai Olivér or a deep ruby ​​Egri Bikavér is a matter of personal taste. However, when it comes to the question of which is healthier, we probably couldn’t give a quick and straightforward answer. Do you wonder that in the battle of red wine against white wine, which […]]]>

Whether you prefer a glass of translucent Irsai Olivér or a deep ruby ​​Egri Bikavér is a matter of personal taste. However, when it comes to the question of which is healthier, we probably couldn’t give a quick and straightforward answer. Do you wonder that in the battle of red wine against white wine, which intoxicating nectar would reign supreme? The differences go well beyond the choice of grape varieties of the region from which they come. Read on to find out which wine turns out to be the healthier choice.

Caveat: While wine is delicious, it won’t give you superpowers, nor should it be considered a health drink to sip every day after your gym class.

Nutritional comparison

Both types are more or less similar when it comes to their sugar and carbohydrate content. The main difference between red wine and white wine is related to the color of the grapes. If we break down the chemical profile of wine, we are left, after alcohol and water, only with polyphenols. These micronutrients include tannins, pigments and flavonoids among thousands of other plant compounds.

The flavonoids are responsible for the good-hearted reputation of this divine alcoholic drink.

Bad news for white wine lovers: these beneficial natural substances are mainly found in grapes (also in dark chocolate, berries, red cabbage and onions, but these do not make you funnier or a better dancer) which are dark.

Apart from flavonoids, red wine does only slightly better in its vitamin and mineral content compared to white wine. They contain equal amounts of magnesium and vitamin B6, both valued at 4% of the daily reference intake (RDA). However, red outperforms white in their levels of iron (4% of the RDI vs. 2% for white) and potassium (5% of the RDI in red vs. only 3% in white).

Read more: The best Hungarian wines have been awarded, here are the winners

Advantages of red wine over white wine

Although the health-promoting attributes of wine outweigh all other types of alcoholic beverages, not all wines are created equal. Some types contain a lot more “good stuff”. For example, the antioxidants found in red wine promise more health benefits compared to white wine.

Antioxidants have the power to reduce oxidative stress in the body, which is linked to many modern chronic diseases such as cancers and cardiovascular disorders.

You may have heard of the “French paradox” that has baffled scientists for decades. Taken in all the Camembert and Roquefort the French eat, they somehow seem to be less vulnerable to heart disease than Americans who have less saturated fat in their diets. Experts suspect that this may be because red wine is an obligatory companion to almost all French dishes (you need to wash these juice snails with something). Presumably, the protective effect is the result of the high flavonoid content in red wine. Numerous studies have proven that moderate consumption of red wine can reduce the risk of coronary heart disease by 30-40%.

Besides all this, red wine is also known to lower bad cholesterol in your system. To mention something good about white wine as well, people looking to reduce their sugar intake should definitely opt for a light colored glass.

Read more: Hungarian wine from Villány becomes the best in the world

What to look for?

It’s wine time and you can’t wait to treat yourself to a glass (or two) but still want to stay on the healthier side? There are a few telltale characteristic traits you can look for in this case. If you want to lose a few pounds, opt for less sweet dry wines, that is to say, they hide less sugar. You won’t compromise your fitness goals with a few sips of Etyeki Kúria Sauvignon Blanc, Feind Sauvignon Blanc, Cassiopeia Merlot de Villány or Badacsonyi Pinot Gris. It may also be a good idea to opt for low-alcohol wines such as Riesling, Chardonnay and even Sauvignon Blanc.

If you don’t care about calories but want to ripen all the promising health benefits of wine, look for dark red options from famous Hungarian wine regions such as Eger, Villány and Szekszárd.

That said, take our advice with a grain of salt. There are so many wonderfully delicious wines, you shouldn’t limit yourself. Take a wine tour through the Hungarian countryside and explore all the rich and exciting flavors the country has to offer. Treat yourself to a glass of sweet and fruity Tokaji Aszú or a velvety Soproni Kékfrankos with notes of plum and blackcurrant and savor every luscious drop.

Hungary in the world’s top wine tourism destinations!

]]>
Get to know the other wine https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/get-to-know-the-other-wine/ Fri, 28 Jan 2022 19:55:51 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/get-to-know-the-other-wine/ Oenophiles, whether experts or simple enthusiasts, all know Red, White and Rosé Wines, the colors come from the manipulations during the production. Specifically, they come from the skin of grapes. Virtually all wine juices are clear and relatively the same. White wines produced by separating the juice from the greenish skins immediately after crushing. Red […]]]>

Oenophiles, whether experts or simple enthusiasts, all know Red, White and Rosé Wines, the colors come from the manipulations during the production. Specifically, they come from the skin of grapes. Virtually all wine juices are clear and relatively the same.

White wines produced by separating the juice from the greenish skins immediately after crushing. Red wines allow the grapes and blackish skins to begin fermentation, only to separate later. Perceptually, one can feel that rosé wines are that area between the other two, just less skin time.

Three is a comfortable potential pick we’re comfortable with, sort of a Goldilocks solution. We easily manage three. A winemaker obtains the color and tannin characteristics of a wine during fermentation. Just like in brewed tea, the longer the tea bag is in hot water, the darker the color will become and the more astringent the drink will be. In many ways, it’s an apt comparison: because the same tannins that make a wine like Cabernet Sauvignon as harsh as a young wine, also produce the bitterness of tea.

Robert Russell

This factor softens in wine with years of ageing, both in barrels and in bottles. It improves alternatively by associating itself with a less tannic wine like Merlot or Malbec, typical in Bordeaux. The grape variety is also a factor in controlling color and bitterness. Pinot Noir is a lighter, thin-skinned variety that will never produce a dark black color, and is generally a softer, silkier tasting wine with less tannin.

]]>
Gordon Alexander of Terroir Wines shares his favorite sips for the winter season https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/gordon-alexander-of-terroir-wines-shares-his-favorite-sips-for-the-winter-season/ Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:14:00 +0000 https://vins-jean-de-monteil.com/gordon-alexander-of-terroir-wines-shares-his-favorite-sips-for-the-winter-season/ Massachusetts wine merchant Gordon Alexander has been working with fine wines for more than three decades, and in 2018 he launched Terroir Wines with business partner Sheri Carl. Aptly named, the company is “dedicated to the principle that place matters”. Together, they source and import wines from all over the world, looking for small winegrowers […]]]>

Massachusetts wine merchant Gordon Alexander has been working with fine wines for more than three decades, and in 2018 he launched Terroir Wines with business partner Sheri Carl. Aptly named, the company is “dedicated to the principle that place matters”. Together, they source and import wines from all over the world, looking for small winegrowers who cherish their land and respect the concept of terroir.

Of French origin, the term terroir is deeply rooted in a reverence for the literal and figurative meaning of place. It is the convergence of the natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, with the almost religious belief in the characteristic taste, aroma and nuance imparted to a wine by its surroundings. Essentially, It’s the taste of land.

Last November, I met Gordon at Gloucester’s Savor Wine & Cheese, and had the chance to speak soul when it comes to wine. Our conversation danced with the concept of terroir as it relates to truth and intent in winemaking.

Vins de Terroir has a small and growing distribution presence on the North Shore. As we settle into a more contemplative state on the fringes of hibernation, what better companions than a selection of four red gems, ours for reflection on the importance of place.

+ 2018 Carol Shelton Zinfandel, Mendocino, CA $22

Carol Shelton, a passionate winemaker in California, “mastered Zinfandel Zen since 1978”. The first producer in Terroir Wine’s portfolio, “it continues to set the benchmark for integrity in its winemaking,” says Alexander. “She was also top of her class at UC Davis, the first to graduate with a women’s degree. Her Wild Thing Zinfandel, from an organic vineyard in Mendocino, has lovely spicy berries, crisp acidity to keep it refreshing and “clever use of oak”.

Fine Wines and Spirits of Leary, Newburyport 202 Merrimac St., 978-462-4451; Variety of Lela, Topsfield, 51 Main St., 978-561-1877; Savor the Wine and Cheese, Gloucester, 76 Prospect St., 978-282-1455

+ 2016 Château Benitey Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France $35

The Gironde river runs through the Bordeaux region in southwestern France and is joined by the Dordogne river. To simplify, the south of the Dordogne is considered the left bank, where Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, due to the gravelly soil. To the north of the Dordogne and Gironde is considered the Right Bank, where Merlot holds court due to its love of clay. Cabernet Franc plays matchmaker with one or other of the dominant grape varieties and grows throughout Bordeaux with Petit Verdot and Malbec. We talk about power and muscle from the Left Bank, and softer, more flexible styles from the Right Bank, as is the case with this Château Benitey 2016. Merlot makes up the bulk of the blend, with a hint of structure with a touch of cabernet franc. “An absolutely classic Saint-Émilion! It’s lush, round and plump, with a hint of chocolate and just a touch of that Bordeaux chalk.

Coastal Greengrocer, Ipswich, 51 Market St., 978-356-8500; Community Package Store, South Hamilton, 45 Bay Rd., 978-468-1386; Savor the Wine and Cheese, Gloucester, 76 Prospect St., 978-282-1455

+ 2017 Michael Shaps Petit Verdot, Virginia, USA $30

Originally from Virginia, Michael Shaps studied winemaking in Burgundy in the 1990s before returning to the United States to found Michael Shaps Wine Works. He also owns a winery in Burgundy, Maison Shaps, working with local winemakers. “Michael is a great guy with a great story and a truly French perspective on American wine making. And it’s hard to find more American than vineyards just below Thomas Jefferson. His Petit Verdot is lush and complex with notes of blueberry, cocoa and cherry compote, but still taut with just enough tension to hold the weight.

Leary’s Fine Wines and Spirits, Newburyport, 202 Merrimac St., 978-462-4451; Savor the Wine and Cheese, Gloucester, 76 Prospect St., 978-282-1455

Gordon Alexander at Savor Wine & Cheese in Gloucester.

+ 2019 Shilda Winery Saperavi, Kakheti, Georgia $14

A recent partnership with Massachusetts-based Georgian importer Kosta Chernikov has brought the purity of Eastern Europe to the Terroir Wines portfolio. Shilda’s Saperavi is a bright, juicy, thirst-quenching and drinkable expression of a native Georgia red grape variety. “This wine is designed to show the purity of the grape rather than the influence of the winemaker. It is fermented in stainless steel, bottled quickly and with minimal aging in tank. Think of it as the analogue of Beaujolais for Georgia.

Savor the Wine and Cheese, Gloucester, 76 Prospect St., 978-282-1455

]]>