Seaweed’s: Creating a table space for everyone

Opening a restaurant under the best of circumstances can be difficult, let alone during a global pandemic. Imagine signing a lease for a new restaurant, in a seasonal vacation town, during the first days of an indefinite global lockdown? Even as someone with years of experience in the industry, you would still be in uncharted waters. Fortunately, Danielle Pattavina and their team (Danielle prefers them / them pronouns) at Seaweed’s approached the business with a radically different mindset from the standards most restaurants use, and their innovative approach has served them well in these times. unprecedented.

Danielle is a seasoned industry veterinarian, who started with her first job in a lobster shack at the age of 16, then moved to New York City where they were immersed in the culinary culture – books and leaders; and had a nascent passion for natural wine. It was in New York, working at Savoy, under the direction of chef Peter Hoffman, that Danielle became “totally charmed by the food”. “This place was like a school,” they said, “a cool learning kitchen. It set the tone for the [kind of] restaurants in which I would work. Danielle spent time in Brooklyn and Cape Town before coming to Martha’s Vineyard to work at the Beach Plum Inn. Working in a kitchen that sourced almost exclusively from the island gave them a glimpse of what locally sourced “farm-to-table” dishes could be.

“I wasn’t planning on opening a restaurant on Martha’s Vineyard; I thought this chapter was over, ”Danielle said. But an opportunity to rent a small space on Kennebec Avenue from some very cooperative owners (due to the pandemic), presented itself. For Danielle, it was the opportunity to try something they had dreamed of their entire career.

This dream signified a dining space that serves natural wine and delicious, locally sourced food, but most of all a respectful, professional, and remunerated workplace. “I don’t want to be a millionaire,” they said. “I want to create a place where I want to work and a place where I feel safe. The restaurant industry is known for its difficult and sometimes downright abusive working conditions. During the early years of their career Danielle experienced some negative aspects of the restaurant industry including hazing, body shame and worse. Seaweed’s isn’t the first restaurant to push back this toxic culture, but they’ve taken thoughtful steps to cultivate a most positive place.

“Seweed’s exists in part to have a weird space on Martha’s Vineyard,” Danielle told me. It’s easy to take a sense of security or comfort in any given situation for granted, especially here on idyllic Martha’s Vineyard. But it’s important to remember that there are many who experience discomfort or even fear on a daily basis. A statement in their employee handbook aptly sums it up: “Seaweed is a safe, anti-racist, gender affirming organization. In our work to create a diverse and fair food system on Martha’s Vineyard, we will intentionally embrace and uplift people who have historically had no place at the table. Creating this space is not with the intention of alienating, but rather with the intention of welcoming. Seaweed’s is above all a place of respect and inclusion.

The first year there was no textbook to break down and rethink. “It wasn’t a pivot; it was a complete change of business plan, ”said Danielle. Seaweed started with a very small team. At first, they offered take-out dinners, but the slim margins on locally sourced food in an environment where employees are paid a fair wage, would certainly not support their new business. Seaweed’s was fortunate enough to inherit a small patio with seating, a much sought-after feature, especially during the pandemic. “Our most coveted thing was our tables outside,” they told me. As the pandemic unfolded, the state eased restrictions on alcohol sales, allowing restaurants to sell beer and wine to accompany the purchase of food, which has helped tremendously. They have launched a weekly wine club, which will run this year from June to October. The club offers two bottles of natural wine per week, with the option to participate or withdraw at any time. As the summer of 2020 progressed, they found that they had become more comfortable with punches, their team worked hard to get things done, and their place in the community began to take shape.

Some customers come up with questions that Danielle says can easily be answered with a quick Google search. Questions about the respectful use of pronouns, or “Can I say the word queer?” For Danielle, that wasn’t the reason they created this space, but they’re happy to be part of a respectful conversation. Most importantly, they received tremendous support from the community they intended to protect and support. Although Martha’s Vineyard is a diverse place, Seaweed’s is a beacon for the queer community and hopes to become a larger part of the community as Covid restrictions are lifted. Danielle’s intention is to “create fairness for queer people”.

As this spring turns into summer and pandemic restrictions begin to ease, there is a sense of excitement and hope for some normalcy on the island. This year, Seaweed’s will welcome not one, but two new chefs. Talia Weingarten and Jam Joseph both join the off-island team as “co-chefs”. Knowing that this was completely unknown water, Danielle wanted the two chefs to participate in defining their roles. Talia and Jam had the possibility to create their menu, their work schedule and even to define their position, together. Most restaurants operate with a top-down mindset, with the chef having the ultimate rule over the kitchen. By having two chefs, Danielle hopes to create a healthier work environment for each of them. Giving the two chefs time to enjoy the island and unwind will allow them to connect with the island and come to work with the kind of positive energy needed to drive this one-of-a-kind concept. “It’s a tough business and I see how people wash themselves,” Danielle said. They hope the two-leader system will encourage more creativity and knowledge sharing: “I was able to make things happen more than I thought I would. ”

Seaweed’s is now open for the 2021 season seven nights a week for dinner and Wednesday through Sunday for lunch to go. Located on Kennebec Avenue in Oak Bluffs, they offer a frequently changing menu of carefully prepared local dishes, natural wines and cocktails, with indoor and outdoor seating.

Seaweed’s also offers a restoration of natural wines through their event business Tiny Shell Natural Wine caterer.

If you find yourself in Cambridge, look for their new store “Momma’s Wine and Grocery”. It is a “neighborhood convenience store” offering snacks, beer and of course natural wine.

Learn more about Seeweed’s ” Seaweedsmv.com; 508-338-7954