For those looking to be transported to turn-of-the-century Europe, you needn’t go much further than New York’s NoMad neighborhood. There, chef Markus Glocker has just opened Koloman, a contemporary French restaurant with Viennese accents.
Taking its name from Koloman Moser, an Austrian artist who helped lead Vienna’s secession movement, Koloman serves up classic European dishes with a modern New York twist. Glocker took his dining experience (including stints at Bâtard and Gordon Ramsay restaurants) and made it a little more laid back. There’s no tasting menu here, and although Koloman is currently only open for dinner, it will develop into an all-day affair inside the former Breslin space at the Ace Hotel.
Nick Johnson
To start your meal, you can opt for oysters – which come with an atomizer filled with Gölles asparagus vinegar that you can spray on the bivalves yourself – or a duck liver parfait which replaced Grappa or Sauternes. with Kracher, an Austrian sweet wine. Heartier dishes range from light to hearty: a seared fluke in brown butter mandelbrot is Glocker’s version of trout amandine, while tenderloin of beef with a bone marrow crust is perfect for summer time. crisp autumn on the horizon.
Classic French and Austrian dishes also make an appearance, of course. The Pleasant Ridge cheddar triple cream soufflé is served with mushroom jam. And the most Austrian dish, the schnitzel, returns to its standard form, served with lingonberries, sea buckthorn and a potato and cucumber salad.
Viennese cafes have also long been known for their desserts, and Koloman pastry chef Emiko Chisholm (formerly of Balthazar) has taken her task seriously. Classic Sacher pie and apple strudel are highlights, but more inventive options also shine. A duck egg crème brûlée unexpectedly combines with caramelized pineapple and mint, while Cherries & Champagne brings together vanilla crème anglaise, fresh cherries, balsamic, oats and champagne ice cream.
Nick Johnson
To complement the menu, Beverage Director Katja Scharnagl (formerly head sommelier at Le Bernardin) has concocted a wine list featuring French and Austrian wines. Positioning itself as a place to celebrate special moments big and small, Koloman will also offer several champagnes by the bottle, ranging from the most affordable ($60-$110) to the most expensive.
With decorative touches such as brass and glass fixtures designed by the restaurant’s namesake himself, Kolomon has taken its inspiration from the back of the house to the front. Can we raise a glass and say “prost!” so that.
Kolomon is now open Tuesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Click here to see all photos of Kolomon.
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