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During travel restrictions resulting from the Covid pandemic, it was difficult to develop articles based on tasting Italian wines. However, Wellcom in Italy and several of their customers helped me meet this challenge by sending me their wines.
Cantine Settesoli’s Mandrarossa label in Sicily has been most generous, and together with their American importer, Palm Bay International, they have provided many of their wines for tasting. Their last expedition provided the material for this long article.
I will start with the white wines and forgo my usual inclusion of the food that accompanied the individual tasting. The first white wine was a Zibibbo Secco IGT 2018, a 100% Zibibbo grape, 12.5% ​​alcohol. The Zibibbo grape, also known as Moscato di Alessandria, was probably brought to Sicily during the Arab occupation several centuries ago. The Zibibbo underwent cryomaceration and the wort was fermented for 15-20 days in stainless steel tanks. The aging lasted four months in stainless steel tanks. The wine obtained was of a very pale straw color with a slight nose of fruit. It finished medium and smooth with a slight sour taste. I rated the Zibibbo an 88.
The next white was a Grillo DOC 2018, an offer of Grillo grapes at 12% alcohol and 100%. Grillo is considered a relatively recent addition to Sicily in the 1800s. It is a cross between Cataratto and Moscato di Alessandria (Zibibbo). The Grillo was treated the same as the Zibibbo above. The resulting wine was very pale straw color with a very light nose. It finished off moderately long and sweet and I rated this excellent example of Grillo a 90. It is a very drinkable wine as an aperitif or with seafood.
The third white we tasted was a Chardonnay Laguna Secca DOC 2018, a varietal wine with 13% alcohol and 100% Chardonnay. Again, the Chardonnay Laguna Secca was treated the same as the two previous wines. The product was very pale straw in color with a slight nose of fruit. It finished off medium and smooth and I rated this very nice Chardonnay at 91.
Our last white we had tasted in the past was a Bertolino Soprano DOC 2017, 12.5% ​​alcohol, a 100% Grillo grape offering. The only difference for the Bertolina Soprano and the three previous whites was that the aging lasted for one month in stainless steel and concrete vats followed by 11 months in large oak barrels. This wine was pale yellow in color with a nose of fruit. It finished average and I rated it 89/90. I would add that I do not normally prefer white wines aged in oak barrels. This is purely personal.
Let’s move on to the reds. We start these with a Cartagho DOC 2017, a wine with 14% alcohol, 100% Nero d’Avola. The Cartagho fermented for 10 days in stainless steel tanks at 72-75 ° F with 12 months aging in French oak barrels. Another four month aging in bottle followed. The result is a wine with a dark ruby ​​color and a slightly fruity nose. It ended moderately long and smooth. I rated this good example of Nero d’Avola at 90.
Our second red was a Frappato IGT 2018, a grape wine with 13% alcohol, 100% Frappato. The Frappato had a 6-8 day maceration in stainless steel tanks at 71-77 ° F, and after removal of the lees was aged for 8 months in stainless steel tanks. The product of this process was a light ruby ​​colored wine with a fruity nose. It finished light and medium. Before giving my rating, I must add that I am a big fan of the Frappato grape. My wife and I loved this wine and rated it 92/93. If you are looking for a light red wine that will pair well with seafood, Frappato is your answer.
Next, we tried a Terre del Sommaco DOC 2016, the clear label winner which was a 14% alcohol, 100% Nero d’Avola wine. The Terre del Sommaco had a 6-8 day maceration at 71-77 ° F followed by an aging of 6-8 months in stainless steel and concrete tanks. After that he spent 19 months aging in large oak barrels and a further 8 months in bottle. The result is a wine with a ruby ​​color and a nose of fruit. It ended moderately long and smooth. I liked this excellent Nero d’Avola and rated it 92/93.
Moving away from the pure Nero d’Avolas, we tried a Bonera Doc 2018, a blend of 50% Nero d’Avola and 50% Cabernet Franc. The Bonera was a 13.5% alcohol wine which, after adding a special yeast, was fermented at 77 ° F in stainless steel tanks, then aged for 3-6 months in French oak barrels followed by 4 additional months in bottle. The Bonera had a dark ruby ​​color and a complex nose. It finished moderately long and smooth and I rated it 91. It will be good with pork dishes.
The Timperossa wine from Mandrarossa. PHOTO: Terry Duarte.
The next wine was a 2018 Timperossa IGT, a grape variety offering 13% alcohol and 100% Petit Verdot. The Timperossa had a maceration and fermentation of 4-6 days at 64-71 ° F. It was aged for 4 months in stainless steel vats plus 4 months in the bottle. The result is a wine with a ruby ​​color and a light nose of fruit. It finished medium and smooth. I rated this good average red wine a 90.
Our last red was a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Serra Brada, 13.5% alcohol, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon varietal wine. The Cabernet Sauvignon had a maceration and fermentation of 6-8 days at 71-77 ° F. It was aged for 8 months at 50 ° F in stainless steel tanks, then was bottled for 3 months. This wine had a ruby ​​color with a very light leather nose. It has a medium length and very smooth finish with an intense minerality. I liked this elegant European-style Cabernet Sauvignon and rated it 91/92.
Thanks to the people of Mandrarossa and Palm Bay for providing these wines.
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