Good Libations: the signature of Sauvignon blanc

Each wine has its own signature of unique flavors, textures and aromas. Chardonnay is known for its vanilla and peach notes, which are usually sweet and smooth. Sauvignon Blanc is a clean, clean break from buttery, oaky white wines. However, its production area puts an indelible signature on the wine.

Sauvignon Blanc probably originated in the Loire Valley in France. Sauvignon is contracted from the French words sauvage and vigne, which loosely translate to “wild vine.” It is described as wild due to the massive amounts of shoots and leaves it produces. Winemakers work hard, cutting off this extra growth so sunlight can reach the grapes. Hundreds of years ago, Sauvignon Blanc was hybridized with Cabernet Franc to create Cabernet Sauvignon.

There are a few examples of crisp Sauvignon made in Bordeaux. While the region’s production is 85% red, many reasonably priced white Bordeaux wines are made from the grape, often with a small amount of Sémillon blended in. The region’s gravelly soil is known to contribute to crisp, light and lively white wines with notes of green fruit, minerals and sparkling acidity.

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Consider Château Recougne Bordeaux Blanc 2020. According to legend, the name recougne comes from the “recognition” the winery received from King Henry IV in the 17th century. The Milhade family has owned the estate for four generations. The Milhades grow grapes and make wine. A warm growing season in 2020 led to a relatively full-bodied and rich wine with 13% alcohol by volume. I bought it locally for $18. The back label states that the grapes are grown on hillsides and harvested at dawn when fresh. The wine has a very light straw color and aromas of lemons, limes and hay. The palate is bold with lemon meringue notes and a racy acidity on the finish. Accompany it with scallops or another scallop dish.

In the late 1800s, Charles Wetmore, a journalist who aspired to be a winemaker, obtained cuttings of Sauvignon Blanc from large Bordeaux estates and planted them in California’s Livermore Valley. Livermore’s warm climate has led to big yields. When Prohibition ended in 1933, California Sauvignon Blanc producers prolifically produced sweet, golden wines known as Sauternes (which is a village near Bourdeaux). Nowadays, varietal wines in cases have replaced jugs. Interestingly, Cribari, a bulk wine producer in Fresno, still makes a jug of Haut Sauterne Sacramental wine.

California Sauvignon Blanc tends to be riper than others and is known for its fig and tropical fruit flavors. Some California winemakers ferment their Sauvignon in barrels and market it as fumé blanc, a term coined by Robert Mondavi as a play on the Pouilly fumé of the Loire Valley. Paso Robles is home to Eos Winery. Owner Bill Foley, who holds an engineering degree and a law degree, sources Sauvignon grapes from quality producers in California to produce a crisp style. I tasted Eos Sauvignon Blanc California 2020 which I found for $12. It has a slightly greenish color and aromas of figs and pears. The palate has lots of pear aromas and a mineral note. It is a little richer than the Bordeaux above. It will go well with goat cheese. It weighs 13.5% ABV.

In the 1980s, New Zealand turned the wine industry upside down by producing crisp Sauvignon that was fermented quickly in stainless steel tanks. No need for expensive French oak barrels or tedious aging. The wines were rated for hints of gooseberry, passion fruit, freshly mown grass, and even hints of cat pee (in a good way). Ocean winds moderate New Zealand’s climate. The grapes are harvested from February to May. The juice is cold pressed and fermented in stainless steel tanks. After a few weeks of fermentation and stabilization, the wine is ready to be bottled and shipped to thirsty consumers. These wines do not improve with age.

New Zealand is made up of two islands. The Marlborough region, located at the northern tip of the South Island, produces more than 70% of the country’s Sauvignon Blanc. Large stones in the vines store the heat of the sun during the day and reflect it back into the vineyard on cool, clear summer nights. As rainfall is low during the summer months, winemakers irrigate to increase yields.

The Spy Valley Winery is located in the Waihopai Valley of Marlborough, which it shares with an international satellite communications station. I picked up a bottle of Spy Valley Satellite Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021 for $19. The winery practices sustainable cultivation techniques and strives for a minimal carbon footprint, thereby protecting wildlife and their habitat. The wine has a light greenish-gold color and aromas of passion fruit, kiwi and gooseberry. The palate is a zesty blend of lime flavors, brightened by crisp acidity and a light spritz of carbonation. The wine is 13% ABV. It would be perfect with pad thai or any spicy Asian dish.

In Chile, Spanish settlers planted vines which they brought in the 1700s and became famous for their inexpensive wine. In the mid-1800s, wealthy Shilean landowners traveled to France and brought back cuttings of Bordeaux grape varieties. According to Forbes, Sauvignon Blanc is now the second most planted grape variety in Chile, with 35,000 acres, behind the number one Cabernet Sauvignon.

Santa Rita was founded in central Chile in 1880. The vineyards are located at the foot of the Andes, where they benefit from a Mediterranean climate and well-drained soils. I was able to purchase a bottle of Santa Rita 120 Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc 2022 for $12. If you’re wondering how a bottle of 2022 wine is available now, remember that the seasons are reversed in the southern hemisphere and the harvest takes place in April. The number 120 refers to a group of 120 patriots, whom the owner of the winery gave refuge to in the 1800s, during Chile’s struggle for independence from Spain.

After harvest, the grapes are cooled and destemmed and only free run juice is used, so there is no bitterness. The wine has aromas of freshly mown grass, lemon and pineapple. The palate is fresh and tangy with flavors of lemon and lime. The wine is 12.5% ​​ABV. Serve with caper salmon and cream sauce over pasta.

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