Four bottles of Loire for a perfect summer – The Irish Times

I’m sure I’m not the only one who, in the middle of winter, dreams of being transported to France, where I can be found dozing by a slow river in the shade of a tree, a bottle of wine chilled in water (tied to a string), with a picnic of locally purchased cheese, salad, charcuterie, cold butter and a freshly baked baguette. The sun is shining and there is a gentle cooling breeze.

I’ve come close to this idyll, mostly on holiday in south-west France, but for many of us that means the Loire Valley. The region seems to promise a soft sun and memories of past holidays. The Loire is the longest river in France, just over 1,000 km from its start in the Massif Central in southeastern France until it reaches the Atlantic Ocean at Saint-Nazaire. The grapes are grown along much of the river giving us a huge range of wines. All styles, from sparkling to sweet, are produced.

White wines share crisp, refreshing acidity and vibrant fruitiness, while most reds have elegance and lightness. Both styles are perfect for summer drinking. I covered red wines a few weeks ago. As for white wines, I covered Muscadet in June, and the other two most widely grown grapes are Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc.

Sauvignon is grown in various parts of the globe, but the Loire is its spiritual home and the source of some of the finest examples. Loire Sauvignon tends to be drier, the fruit a bit less exuberant, often with lively, cleansing mineral acidity. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are the best known names and produce most of the best wines, but Quincy, Reuilly, Coteaux du Giennois, Menetou-Salon and Touraine can also produce fine examples. Many cheaper versions, which can be very good value for money, will simply be labeled Loire Valley.

Chenin Blanc produces almost any style of wine, from sparkling and dry to semi-dry and sweet. Even the sweetest wines have wonderful pure acidity that is refreshing. While some young wines may seem a little austere, they go wonderfully with food. The best wines will last and improve for decades, taking on a honeyed richness. Vouvray is the best known name but Savennières Anjou, Saumur and Montlouis are home to excellent producers.

Sauvignon goes well with sushi, plain cooked fish, goat cheese, herb salads, sauces like pesto and fresh tomatoes of all kinds. Although less aromatic than Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc accompanies most of the foods above, including simply grilled fish, trout, poached salmon and all kinds of summer salads.

And of course, both wines would be perfect for that al fresco lunch by the river.

Le Grand Cerf, Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2020

12.5%, €12.95 instead of €15.95

Slightly aromatic with lovely ripe green fruit and lemon zest, crisp and dry finish. A great summer aperitif or with lighter seafood and herb salads.

From: O’Briens

Pouilly-Fumé 2021, Domaine des Berthiers, Jean-Claude Dagueneau

13%, €20.18

A wonderful winning combination of perfectly ripe succulent green fruit and tantalizing flinty mineral acidity. Delicious on its own, but even better with goat cheese, tomato salads or simply cooked white or fatty fish. Exceptional value for money.

Of: WineSpark.com

Sinople Chinon 2020, Organic Château de Coulaine Cru

13%, 25€

Deep golden color, light with lemon zest and pears, covered with honey, light toast and spices. A beautiful atypical complex wine that asks for food. Baked salmon, lemon chicken or tahini roasted cauliflower would be good pairings.

From: Whelehan’s Wines, Loughlinstown

Vouvray Sec 2019, Le Haut-Lieu, Domaine Huet, Biodynamics

13%, 44€

A nicely floral nose; youthful green apple, quince and pear with a strong mineral backbone. A subtle, complex and precise wine with a nice balance. Enjoy now with grilled white fish and other lighter seafood dishes or store for up to a decade.

From: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lawyer, D4, Rathcoole, Malahide; Blackrock Cellar; Deveneys, Dundrum; vine, Dalkey; La Touche, Greystones; McHugh’s, D5; Mitchell & Sons, IFSC, Glashtule; Neighborhood wine; Redmonds, D6