California crops raise optimism levels

Paso Robles and Santa Barbara County are neighboring wine regions, but generally they couldn’t be more different in what the climate offers them. This year, however, they are enjoying similar conditions without drama.

Quietly, as the rest of the west suffered from record high temperatures and worsening drought, this part of California experienced relatively cool and mild weather with no major heat spikes, rain or hailstorms or , fortunately, without fire or smoke.

A cold winter, continued drought, and cool conditions in May during the flowering season can lead to slightly smaller harvests than usual, but there is every reason to believe that wines from this important part of California will be good in 2021. There is a caveat: in this part of the state, the grapes tend to ripen later than elsewhere. Some wineries are already finished, while others say they are still weeks away. Let’s say the vintage is shaping up very well but we are still in the eighth round.

“The 2021 vintage has been a very cool vintage but even so far,” said Jeremy Leffert, director of winemaking at Tooth and Nail Winery in Paso Robles. “We have known very few days above 100 degrees [Farenheit] and the hot days we experienced were at a good time in the growing season, between July 1 and August 15. Nighttime temperatures remained low, guardians of acidity. These factors combined are the driving force behind the quality that I see through this vintage. Hopefully the forecast will cooperate over the next 21-30 days as we finish harvesting. “

In Santa Barbara County, Amy Christine MW, co-owner of the Holus Bolus winery, told Wine-Searcher that she knows the latest recorded picking dates.

“Spring was cool, delaying bud break compared to 2019 and 2020, where bud break was earlier,” Christine said. “The summer was also cool, without the heat peaks of 2019 and 2020. For the first time in the history of our cellar, we picked the Pinot Noir in the last week of September, two full weeks behind. normal years … pHs were low and sugars higher in all varieties compared to 2020. In 2020, our harvest decisions were made largely on the basis of pH, and in 2021, our decisions to harvest. harvest were based on sugar levels and flavor development. “

Lucas Pope is the COO of Coastal Vineyard Services, which manages numerous wineries in and around Paso Robles. He said the crop size was slightly smaller than normal, especially for Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, while the Syrah crops are closer to normal size.

“The quality was high in Paso,” Pope told Wine-Searcher. “The drought conditions led to smaller berries and a higher color for the reds. The whites were spared the very hot days, so the acidity was able to remain relatively high and should produce excellent wines. The lack of precipitation and pleasant weather will be the markers of the 2021 vintage. “

Small is beautiful

Jason Haas, general manager of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, said he’s seeing smaller clusters and berries, which bodes well for the wines.

“It has all the hallmarks of a successful vintage, but it’s rare, at least for us,” Haas told Wine-Searcher. “It looks like we’ve lost about 30% from the last few years. It’s not a problem without its benefits. The skin to juice ratio is really high. The colors are really beautiful. The intensity is amazing.”

Haas said its vineyards received about 60% of normal winter precipitation, but most fell in two days in late January, faster than the soil could absorb.

On the cool coast of San Luis Obispo County, Haliotide Wines winemaker Nicole Bertotti Pope said harvest loads initially predicted to be below average turned out to be higher than expected, possibly due to the growing season without drama.

“The cooler temperatures in spring and summer allowed for an extended growing season, with slow ripening and flavor development,” Pope told Wine-Searcher. “At present, no major weather event has affected the quality of the fruit. The balanced harvest load along with the small bunches and berries allowed for intense flavor and great acid retention. The acid levels are particularly high with good intensity of flavor and color. “

Magan Kunin, owner of Kunin Wines in the city of Santa Barbara, said she worries the cool growing season will be a challenge for late-ripening grapes like mourvèdre, which is the source of some of the best. Paso Robles wines.

“It’s a good year for the Rhône whites: longer hanging time to get articulate flavors and acid to spare,” Kunin told Wine Searcher. “The 2021 harvest requires a lot of waiting for maturity, followed by some difficulties after sudden spikes in brix. Our top pick of the year came in at 19.8 brix, well below the 23.5 we expected. Eight days later our second pick came in at 26 and the change. Lots of irregularities in maturity levels in the vineyard, from bunch to bunch, section to section. “

Chad Melville, head winemaker for Melville Winery, said the harvest size in his Santa Barbara County winery is just at his 10-year average.

“The quality so far has been between really good and spectacular, depending on the block / clone and a few other factors like row orientation, soil and elevation,” Melville told Wine-Searcher. “Summary, really excited for the Pinot and Chardonnay. The Syrah still has at least a month but that’s a bit normal. So far the Syrah looks great, colors well and the skins are really soft.”

Haas believes the lower yields and smaller berries could lead to a memorable vintage.

“It reminds me of ’07 here, which was a similar year in that it followed a dry winter and a cold winter,” Haas said. “It was a year that took us by surprise because the vines looked so healthy. Once we started picking the yields were low. The payoff is that the 2007s are some of the best wines we have ever had. elaborate. So I hope they will be too. “