A Romanian wine iconoclast

I had the chance to travel twice to the main wine regions of Romania this year and discover some truly impressive wines. Unfortunately, this country has long had a reputation for producing lackluster wines at accessible prices, but thankfully that is changing fast.

The map of Romania looks like a fish!

For example, I recently met visionary winemaker Paul Fulea, who produces wines in the seaside region of Dobrogea. Its label is Crama Histria and the region has a lot of maritime influence. All responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.

Liza B. Zimmerman (LBZ) How long have you been making wine?

Paul Fulea (PF): I started producing wines in 2015. I had a consultant for the first few years until 2018 but now I make them myself.

LBZ: How many different wines do you make?

PF: I usually make three white wines and a blend from them, three rosé wines and a blend from them, and two or three red wines every year.

LBZ: How is the Dobrogea wine region unique?

PF: Dobrogea is unique in many ways. First of all, it is the only wine region close to the Black Sea – in Romania – and its gentle slopes are very exposed to the sun.

LBZ: How is the vine affected by its proximity to the sea?

PF: The proximity to the sea is a real blessing for the vineyard and for the wines. It ensures low temperatures at night even on the hottest summer days, the constant winds cool the grapes and the sea protects the vines from frost in winter. Of course, it has its drawbacks, such as periods of fog at the end of autumn which can affect the health of the grapes.

LBZ: What types of grapes and wine styles are traditional for the region?

PF: The traditional grape varieties, the main types that were planted in the 1970s and 1980s were Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Babeasca Neagra (an ingenious red) and Aligoté, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Feteasca Alba ( White). After 2010 we also saw Feteasca Neagra, Pinot Noir and Pinot Grigio being planted in the area. The region was originally best known for its white wines.

LBZ: How do you produce blends and single varietals that have broken with tradition?

PF: A small producer like me has only one chance: to go where no one has gone before. So I try to make wines with wild yeast. It’s not just a marketing strategy, but I tend to do things differently overall in order to make a statement about Dobrogea and my wines. My long-term goal is to show the beauty of the terroir of Dobrogea.

LBZ: What new blends have you introduced and how do they pair with local food, from traditional meat dishes to seafood? Your Ammos Blanc is one of my favorites.

PF: I think the most unusual blend is my Ammos Blanc, made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling. With high natural acidity from Riesling, freshness from Sauvignon Blanc and full-bodied feel from Chardonnay, this wine is one of the wines that pairs best with local fish and seafood dishes.

LBZ: What are the most surprising trends you see in Romanian wines?

PF: It’s not about surprising trends. I believe what we are doing now is more of a search for our identity. We can make great wines, but to get there we need more time to explore, challenge the quality of our wines, and promote our national native varietals.

LBZ: If the quality is there, why do you think these wines encounter difficulties in being distributed abroad?

PF: We have a few wineries that export very well, but we don’t yet have a good image for our wines. However, every bottle of good Romanian wine sold abroad functions as an ambassador of our wine industry.

LBZ: Are international consumers willing to pay for Romanian wines when they cost as much as their French and Italian counterparts? Why are they or are they not?

PF: No, they are not. We lack brand marketing, which exists in France or Italy, and sometimes we lack quality. We’ve come a long way in the past 30 years, but please give us another 30!

LBZ: What does the future of Romanian viticulture look like?

PF: Unfortunately, we have lived through difficult times in recent years with the pandemic and the war in Ukraine. But I am optimistic and I believe that Romanian viticulture has a great future. We will make better wines and we will share the stories of a wonderful country where native grape varieties will turn into great wines.